Vino Business

Book excerpt: “This sharp critique of French winemakers, and Bordeaux’s Saint Emilion region in particular, caused quite a stir when it was published in France in 2014” (Publishers Weekly). Already provoking debate and garnering significant attention across France and within the wine world, Vino Business is a “truly eye-opening exposé” of the dark side of French wine by acclaimed investigative journalist Isabelle Saporta (Booklist). In recent decades, Bordeaux has come under the influence of large-scale international investors. Unafraid to name names, Saporta sheds a harsh light on how this influence has corrupted the region’s centuries-old traditions of winemaking excellence. She uncovers how the classification system was manipulated in 2012 to ensure that the wines of Saint-Émilion—Bordeaux’s most prestigious appellation—were certified premier grand cru classé A. Giving extra points to a chateaux for the size of its parking lot, the quality of the wine itself counts for only thirty percent of that coveted rank. In other chapters, Saporta investigates issues of wine labeling and pesticides, and draws comparisons to Champagne, Burgundy, and the rest of the wine world. “This fast-paced, provocative read” is a cri de coeur for the lost values of traditional winemaking (Dave DeSimone, Pittsburgh Tribune Review).