The English and Australian Cookery Book

Book excerpt: European Australians have generally regarded the consumption of native flora and fauna with hesitation. From the outset of European colonisation of Australia, emphasis has been placed upon the cultivation of exotic grains like wheat, and the farming of introduced animals such as chickens, sheep and cattle, in order to establish a familiar and long-term food supply. However, by necessity and sometimes by choice, native produce comprised an important part of the diet for many colonists throughout the 19th century. While plants were rarely exploited as a food source, plentiful kangaroos, wallabies and water fowl were an obvious source of protein for those isolated on properties in the Australian Colonies. Fish were a major part of the diet for coastal settlements. Possibly as a result of this ambivalence, there was little attempt to codify a specific Australian cuisine until The English & Australian Cookery Book, was published in 1864. Written under a pseudonym by esteemed Tasmanian police magistrate and politician Edward Abbott, this cookbook showcases the diverse range of dishes that were popular in the colonial period. Abbott described himself as an aristologist, an expert in the study of food, culture and society. Abbott collected recipes that often combined native and exotic ingredients and he carefully selected and refined traditional English recipes to suit Colonial Australian conditions, ingredients and tastes. He also championed locally produced wines and discussed in great detail related matters such as smoking etiquette and the employment of servants. The English & Australian Cookery Book provides a unique window into the rich but almost unknown culinary heritage of colonial Australia and in particular, Colonial Tasmania. Whether you're a history buff, foodie or simply looking to expand your cooking repertoire, the English & Australian Cookery Book is a must-read.